When done correctly, pruning establishes a strong branching structure, improving light penetration and air movement and preventing the spread of diseases.

This toddsmariettatreeservices.com article will discuss why pruning young trees is essential, the best time to prune, and how to make the proper pruning cuts to promote strong growth form. With these tips, you can help your young trees develop into healthy, beautiful trees with a natural shape.

Purpose: Pruning Young Trees for Good Structure

Pruning young trees is an often overlooked but important part of ensuring your newly planted tree’s long, healthy life. While many people focus on the aesthetics of a tree, pruning is more about ensuring proper growth and structure. When a tree is young, it needs guidance, and pruning helps create a stable scaffolding to achieve its maximum potential.

For instance, without careful pruning, newly planted trees in urban areas tend to be over-exuberant in soaking up the light and forming multiple branches when only one should be the primary leader for the crown of the tree. Pruning away any excess shoots reduces competition between branches and gives your tree one solid central leader, making it stronger overall in the future.

Understanding how to and when to prune your trees takes time and practice, but there are certain basic tenets that you can apply when starting. These include keeping the height relatively low during establishment, eliminating any non-essential upward-facing shoots, and removing broken or dead branches as soon as they appear.

When pruning there should only be one dominant leader

One critical aspect of pruning young trees is ensuring only one dominant leader. The central leader is the tree’s main trunk, and all lateral branches grow from it. If there are multiple leaders, the tree may grow in a structurally weak manner, making it more susceptible to breakage.

Therefore, you’ll need to identify the central leader, the tree’s main stem that will grow straight while other branches grow off it at an angle. This can be done by inspecting the tree from the ground up and finding the strongest stem with the most vertical growth. Choosing the leader most likely to grow as straight as possible is essential.

Once the central leader has been identified, it’s time to start pruning. The first step is to remove any competing leaders – stems or branches compete with the central leader for dominance. Competing leaders should be removed immediately, preferably during the first year after planting.

Removing the competing leaders is generally a straightforward process. Using clean and sharp pruning tools, make a clean cut as close to the main trunk as possible. Be careful not to damage the bark or cause mechanical damage to the main trunk.

After removing the competing leaders, ensure that the remaining branches are spaced out evenly along the central leader. Prune away any temporary branches growing on the trunk or lower branches. These small branches will eventually fall off as the tree grows, so removing them early will encourage the tree to focus its energy on growing the main structure.

Examining the tree yearly is crucial to ensure that the central leader remains the dominant trunk. Any branches or stems growing faster than the central leader should be pruned away immediately. Promoting a single dominant leader in young trees will ensure the tree grows strong and remains structurally sound throughout its lifespan.

Promote strong branch structure and healthy trunk development

Promoting a strong branch structure and healthy trunk development is essential for young trees to grow into sturdy mature trees. Proper pruning techniques can help to encourage healthy trunk growth and branch structure, improve air movement, and prevent damage from wind and other external factors.

Removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches is essential to promoting a healthy branch structure. These branches can weaken the tree’s structure and make it more susceptible to damage from external factors. Regular inspection and pruning will help keep the tree healthy and withstand harsh weather conditions.

When pruning young trees, making clean cuts at the branch collar is essential. The branch collar is a swelling where the branch meets the trunk, and it contains specialized cells that help to heal the wound after pruning. Cutting too close to the trunk can damage the collar and lead to a slow healing process, increasing the risk of disease and pests.

Proper pruning techniques can also help to promote healthy air movement within the tree. This is important for the tree’s overall health, as it helps to reduce the risk of fungal diseases and insect infestations. By removing crossing branches and thinning out the canopy, you can promote healthy air circulation and light penetration, leading to healthier and stronger trees.

Benefits of Pruning Young Trees

Pruning is an essential part of caring for young trees, and it offers numerous benefits for the overall health and growth of the tree. Pruning involves removing branches, limbs, or shoots that are either dead, weak, or damaged. It can also include shaping the tree or controlling its growth direction. Here are some of the key benefits of pruning young trees.

• Promoting Strong Growth & Form – One of the primary reasons for pruning young trees is to promote a strong growth form. This means creating a balanced structure to help the tree develop a healthy and profound foundation. By removing competing branches or limbs, the tree’s central leader can become dominant, leading to a straight and uniform trunk.
• Reducing the Risk of Damage – Pruning young trees can also help reduce the risk of property damage or injuries caused by falling branches. By removing dead, diseased, or broken limbs, you can reduce the weight on the branches and improve the overall strength of the tree. This reduces the chances of branches breaking off during high winds or storms.
• Preventing the Spread of Diseases – Regular pruning helps prevent the spreading of diseases and pests from infected branches to healthy ones. Removing diseased and damaged branches promptly reduces the risk of further damage and the potential spread of the infection.
• Improving Air Circulation and Sunlight – Proper pruning also improves the structure of the tree’s foliage, allowing for increased airflow and sunlight penetration. When the tree’s canopy is thin and open, air can circulate freely, and the foliage is less prone to fungal growth, insect infestation, and disease.
• Stimulating Fruit Production – Pruning also encourages fruit production in trees like apple or peach trees. With strategic trimming, growers can regulate the tree’s size and fruit production.

Pruning young trees is crucial to their overall growth and health. It promotes a stable growth form, reduces the risk of damage and disease, increases air circulation and light penetration, and can even stimulate fruit production.

When to Prune Young Trees

When it comes to pruning young trees, timing is an essential factor in promoting healthy growth and preventing damage to the tree. Generally, it’s best to prune young trees during their dormant season, typically in late fall to early spring. Pruning during this time allows the tree to recover and heal before new growth begins in the spring.

One crucial consideration when pruning young trees is the time of planting. It’s best to wait until the second or third year after planting before pruning, as the tree needs time to establish itself and develop a strong root system. During this time, the tree should be allowed to grow naturally without any pruning or shaping.

Once the tree has become established, it’s essential to begin pruning regularly to promote healthy growth and structural stability. Structural pruning, which involves removing competing branches and shaping the tree to have a strong central leader, should be done during the dormant season.

In addition to timing, it’s also critical to consider the size and type of branches when pruning young trees. When pruning, it’s necessary to make clean cuts and avoid damaging the branch collar – the swollen area at the base of the branch where it attaches to the trunk. Larger branches should be pruned strategically to avoid leaving large wounds that take longer to heal. Temporary branches or growth defects should be removed as they arise to prevent them from becoming permanent and affecting the tree’s overall structure.

By pruning strategically and at the right time, you can promote strong growth form, reduce the risk of damage, prevent the spread of disease, and encourage fruit production in your young trees.

Time of planting

When it comes to pruning young trees, the time of planting is a crucial consideration. The tree needs time to establish its root system and develop a strong foundation during the initial planting process. If pruning is done too early, it can stress the tree and hinder its growth.

Once the tree has become established, typically after two to three years, begin pruning it regularly to promote healthy growth and stability. At this point, the tree will have a more robust root system and can handle pruning without the risk of stunted growth.

Another benefit of delaying pruning until after the tree’s establishment is giving it time to determine its natural growth pattern. If pruning is done too early, it may alter the tree’s natural shape and branching structure. Waiting also allows the arborist to more easily identify which branches should be removed for overall health and performance.

After planting, before tree establishment

After planting a young tree, give the tree time to establish its root system before any significant pruning is done. During this period, the tree is vulnerable, and pruning can cause undue stress, weakening the tree’s foundation and hindering its growth. It’s best to allow the tree to grow naturally and focus on providing it with adequate water, nutrients, and sunlight to help it thrive.

It’s important to note that there are certain situations where pruning may be necessary, such as the removal of damaged or dead branches. These prunings should be kept to a minimum and done carefully to avoid compromising the tree’s health.

To maximize the tree’s growth potential, consider and strategically plan its planting. Planting a tree in the fall, winter, or early spring allows it to establish its root system before the hot summer months. This will help the tree tolerate harsh weather conditions, improving its chances of successful establishment.

After the tree has been established

After establishing a young tree, continuing with regular pruning is recommended. At this stage, proper pruning techniques can help promote growth and prevent damage from wind, snow, and other environmental factors.

When pruning a mature tree pay attention to the branch collar – the swollen area at the base of a branch, where it connects to the trunk. Make clean cuts just outside the branch collar to avoid damaging the surrounding tissue. Leaving a stub or making a flush cut can prevent the tree from healing properly, leading to disease and other issues.

Another consideration when pruning mature trees is the angle of attachment for branches. Branches attached at narrow angles are more prone to breaking under the stress of wind, snow, and other factors.

Removing these weak branches is important to prevent damage to the tree and surrounding property. In addition to removing weak or damaged branches, it’s also important to maintain the tree’s natural shape. Avoid excessive pruning on one side of the tree, as this can lead to an unbalanced growth pattern and weaken the tree’s overall structure.

After being established, regular pruning can promote better light penetration and air movement within the tree’s canopy. This can help prevent the spread of diseases and improve overall tree health.

It’s important to note that heavy pruning should be done during the tree’s dormant period in the winter or early spring. This is because pruning cuts made during the growing season can damage the tree’s growth and increase the risk of disease.

When branches become too heavy

As a young tree grows, keep an eye on the weight of its branches. A branch may begin to sag or droop under its weight, or it may start to pull away from the trunk. This can cause unsightly growth patterns and be a sign of structural weakness within the tree.

Regularly prune and thin out excess growth to prevent branches from becoming too heavy. Structural pruning techniques can remove branches growing in the wrong direction or too close to the tree’s central leader. This can help to prevent the tree from becoming top-heavy.

When pruning, it is important to ensure you are not removing too much of the tree’s structure at once. Removing major branches or scaffold branches can have lifelong effects on the tree’s growth and development. Instead, focus on removing smaller, temporary branches contributing to the tree’s overall weight.

In addition to pruning, supporting heavy branches with staking or cabling is also a helpful method to distribute and prevent their weight from becoming too substantial to bear. This can help spread the branches’ weight more evenly and prevent them from breaking or falling during strong winds or severe weather conditions.

If you notice that a branch has become too heavy and poses a risk to your property or safety, take action immediately. Consult an arborist or tree care specialist to determine the best course of action for your specific situation.

How often should I structurally prune?

As a tree owner, understand that pruning is not a one-time task. Instead, it is an ongoing process that should be performed regularly, especially in the early stages of a tree’s growth.

The frequency of pruning also depends on the tree’s age, species, growth rate, and overall health. But as a general rule of thumb, having your young tree structurally pruned every 1-2 years for the first 5-7 years of its life is recommended.

Pruning young trees every few years removes any growth defects, establishes a strong branching structure, and promotes healthy growth patterns. Young trees tend to develop faster than older trees, so regular pruning is necessary to keep up with their rapid growth.

In addition, structural pruning helps prevent the tree from developing weak crotches or narrow angles of attachment, which can lead to branch failure, especially during severe weather conditions.

It is important to note that pruning should only be done at the right time. Most often, the best time to prune is during your young trees’ dormant season. Late fall to late winter is ideal. While spring pruning can be done, it should be carefully done before new growth has started.

Finally, structural pruning is best left to trained professionals. Attempting to prune your tree without proper guidance can result in improper cuts, unnecessary wounds, or even property damage.

Techniques for Pruning Young Trees

• Start at the top of the tree and work your way down. Prune off any dead or diseased branches first to prevent the spread of infection.
• Ensure all branches are evenly spaced apart and not clustered together, as this can create weak crotches that can lead to branch failure.
• Use a sharp pair of pruning scissors or shears to make clean cuts with minimal damage to the tree’s bark and structure. Avoid using a chainsaw, as this can cause significant damage to the young tree.
• When cutting, leave a small stub so that new growth can form without exposure to pests and disease-causing pathogens in the environment.
• Remove crossing branches or suckers growing from the base of the trunk, as these can take away resources from other parts of the tree and lead to structural instability over time.
• If you notice any downward-growing branches or stems, cut them off at an angle so that water does not collect in these areas, which can cause fungal diseases such as root rot.
• Finally, use supporting devices like staking or cabling if necessary for heavy branches or those prone to breakage due to strong winds or severe weather conditions.

Types of Pruning

Young trees benefit from pruning, encouraging their growth into strong, healthy adult trees. Without proper pruning, young trees can become overcrowded with branches and foliage that can block light from reaching the inner parts of the tree. Pruning young trees also helps shape them in their early stages of development.

There are several techniques for pruning young trees:

1. Structural pruning – removes weak, diseased, or dead branches. It also helps create a substantial framework for the tree by removing branches growing at narrow angles.
2. Formative pruning – shapes the tree and improves its overall form. It can reduce height, create an even canopy, and encourage branching in desirable directions.
3. Crown thinning – reduces the density of a tree’s foliage and improves air circulation and light penetration. It can also help reduce the weight of heavy branches, which can help prevent structural failure during windstorms or other severe weather conditions.
4. Crown raising – removes lower branches to give the tree a higher clearance level from the ground, buildings, powerlines, pedestrian access, or vehicles below it.
5. Crown reduction – reduces the size and spread of a tree without compromising its overall structure and integrity. It is typically used when a tree has outgrown its allotted space or needs to be made smaller for aesthetic purposes.
6. Deadwood removal – eliminates any dead or diseased branches from the tree to prevent them from falling off and causing injury or property damage.

It is important to note that these techniques should be performed by a trained arborist or certified tree care specialist to avoid any damage or improper cutting that could cause harm to your young trees.

A glossary of pruning terms

• Branch collar: The branch collar is the enlarged area where a branch connects to the trunk. Chemicals in the branch collar work to compartmentalize wounds and prevent decay from spreading when branches die or are removed.
• Flush cuts: Flush cuts are made when a limb is trimmed all the way to its main branch or trunk. When performing pruning cuts, cut just outside the branches’ collar. The branch collar is the swollen area where a branch meets the trunk, and it contains protective mechanisms that prevent decay from spreading into the wood. Flush cuts may impede a tree’s healing ability and increase the possibility of decay extending beyond the wound.
• Pruning sealers: Pruning sealers or paints, also called wound dressings, were historically thought to aid in tree healing and reduce sap loss. Tree wound sealers can negatively impact your tree, prevent natural healing, and lead to moisture buildup and decay. When trees are pruned, calluses naturally form over the cuts, and no additional help is required to heal their wound.
• Reduction cuts: Reduction cuts involve trimming branches to a lateral branch that is no less than 1/3 the diameter of the branch being removed. The lateral branch can continue its growth. Reduction cuts are a commonly used pruning technique.
• Suckers: Suckers are new vertical shoots that emerge from the roots or root flare. It is recommended to prune them, and they can be removed at any point during the year. Certain types of trees are more likely to generate suckers, although stress can contribute to their formation.
• Thinning: Thinning is a pruning technique that decreases the density of the upper canopy, allowing more light and air to reach the lower canopy. Properly thinning benefits the trees’ inner leaves and can promote tree health. However, thinning should not be mistaken for the harmful practice of lion-tailing.
• Topping: Topping refers to cutting branches down to points without significant lateral branches. Following the topping process, only stubs remain in the canopy. The act of topping trees is often done to decrease risk by decreasing the size of the tree. Trimming the top of a tree may lead to higher chances of decay and a significant weakening of the tree. After topping, the tree requires yearly upkeep and alters its natural aesthetics. It is recommended to use reduction cuts instead.
• Watersprouts: Watersprouts are vertical shoots that proliferate on branches. The growths on the tree are a response to stress and require pruning. The removal can be done at any point during the year.
• Woundwood: Woundwood is a formation of wood that grows around a wound at the branch collar to prevent insects or decay from entering. Improper pruning techniques, like flush cuts inside the branch collar, can hinder the formation of woundwood and increase the tree’s vulnerability to pests and decay.

Prevent your apple trees from growing unshapely and severely weakened by an overcrowded crop. Knowing how winter pruning can benefit your apple tree will help you keep it growing healthy for generations.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered the following information about winter pruning for your apple trees, some crucial tips about apple tree pruning, and the outcome this pruning may have on your apple tree.

How To Prune Your Apple Tree

Any time you set out to prune any tree, there are some guidelines to follow that help you protect the tree’s health while encouraging its shapely and vigorous growth.

Sterilize Pruning Equipment – Every time you bring out the loppers, pruning shears, hand saws, and anything else that will make contact with your tree should be sterilized with a 1:10 solution of bleach and water. If you are pruning between multiple trees, your equipment should be cleaned and sterilized between each tree.

Tip: When pruning multiple trees, fill a spray bottle with the bleach and water mixture and sterilize your equipment as needed.

Always Prune with a Plan – Before you start pruning, ask yourself if you need to prune and if you can prune at a more appropriate time.

Tip: When a tree (of any species) has been neglected and not pruned for multiple growing seasons, do not remove more than 1/3 of the tree. Spread the pruning out over several growing seasons to get it fully pruned back and into good shape. If more than 1/3 of the tree must be removed, hire a professional tree service to supervise or conduct this pruning activity.

Pruning Cuts – Using sharp, sanitized tools, you’ll want to make the cleanest cuts possible. Here are how some of these cuts are made:

Removing a full branch will require you to make a calculated “three-cut” removal.
Cut 1, known as the undercut,

it happens approximately 6 inches from the trunk from the bottom up, severing 1/3 of the branch. This cut prevents the bark from stripping if the branch falls before finishing the removal.

Cut 2, is a top, down cut approximately 6 to 8 inches further out from the undercut and removes the bulk of the branch.

Cut 3, is a top, down cut flush with the branch collar, taking care to avoid damaging the branch collar.

When tipping a branch or cutting away a diseased portion but not the entire branch, find an outward-facing bud before making your pruning cut. Cut at a 45-degree angle about 1/4 inch away from the bud. New growth will emerge from the bud in the next growing season.

Why Prune in Winter?

There are several reasons one may prefer to prune apple trees in the winter. Here are some of those reasons:

You can see a tree’s defects and poor growth
Cutting/Pruning is safer since most diseases and insects are dormant as well
Remove crossing/rubbing branches which can become vectors for insect infestations and disease, or both
Competing branches are more easily detected and removed

Tip: If your apple tree is lacking the lower branches that are good on an apple tree, you can entice them to grow out. Find a bud, and use a knife to make nicks about a millimeter above and below the bud. Then cut the notch between the nicks completely out, cutting through the bark and the green layer beneath it. This will force the tree to grow a new branch at that location.

Note: Your fruit trees should be pruned every year, during the dormant or winter period. If you don’t begin proper pruning early in the tree’s life, the result will likely be “alternate bearing,” or that one year’s harvest will be bountiful while the following year’s will be small. Pruning is necessary to open up the tree canopy to sunlight and air circulation and promote fruit production and a healthy plant. Follow these tips to pruning your apple tree so you can reap a bountiful harvest consistently.

Pruning or Thinning Fruit

During growing seasons with exceptional weather conditions, apple trees may produce a bumper crop or overabundance of fruit. This may cause fruit “crowding” on the branches and result in smaller-sized apples.

You can grow uncrowded, tasty, and normal-sized apples. It may be necessary to thin out the fruit. Fruit should be spaced about 6 inches apart along the branches; thin out closely grown apples remove the smaller-sized ones in favor of the larger fruits.

Winter Apple Tree Pruning

In this article, you discovered helpful information about pruning your apple trees during the winter season and how these pruning activities can influence your apple tree’s growth and fruit production.

Pruning and caring for your apple trees from an early age will create a consistently repeating annual harvest, help keep your trees healthy, and reduce your tree’s susceptibility to insect infestation.

Without proper winter pruning activities, your apple trees could wind up riddled with insects, diseased, and dying.

Sources:
hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/pruning-training-apple-pear-trees/
cesonoma.ucanr.edu/files/27164.pdf
pss.uvm.edu/ppp/articles/appleprune.html
extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/training-and-pruning-fruit-trees-7-003/

Prevent your shrubs and trees from becoming diseased and dying due to untimely fall pruning. Knowing when to prune your plants, shrubs, and trees in the fall will help you keep them thriving.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered the following information about the heightened risks of pruning activities performed during fall months.

The Risk of Early Fall Pruning

It is not advised to conduct ANY pruning activities in early fall. All pruning activities encourage new plant growth. When these activities occur in early fall (when the tree or plant is starting to go dormant), any new growth won’t have enough time to harden before the first frost and freezing temperatures set in. This tender new growth, damaged by freezing weather, can become a vector for infestations and disease.

Why Fall Pruning Is Discouraged

The dangers of early fall pruning include:

Disease – As the seasons change from summer to fall, rainfall is typically increased, creating a moist or wet environment that promotes the growth and spreading of disease-causing bacteria and fungi.

Infestation – Like disease infections, insect infestations are supported by a moist or wet environment. These conditions delay a tree or plant’s ability to heal pruning wounds.

Off-Season Growth – As mentioned, pruning encourages growth. Pruning a tree or plant before dormancy can result in tender growth that becomes a vector for disease and infestation (when damaged by freezing weather).

Tip: Put your pruning shears away for another couple of months and allow your trees and plants to go completely dormant. Once dormancy has settled in (after all the leaves have dropped), you can safely prune trees and shrubs.

Note: If you must perform fall pruning, wait for your tree, shrub, or plant to go completely dormant. This “fall” window of opportunity is generally between the Thanksgiving and New Year holidays. However, if you can wait, late winter (late February) pruning is far less risky.

Fall Pruning Exceptions

Some situations arise, demanding immediate pruning activities. While most of these apply to trees, large or overgrown shrubs may require similar attention. Be on the lookout for the following:

Overhanging or Dangerous Growth – When trees or large shrubs grow over a structure or lean in that direction, they can cause great concern. This is true, especially in regions prone to severe weather.

The solution to this predicament is to prune back the limbs or branches causing the concern or to remove the tree or shrub, eliminating the threat altogether.

Dead Limbs or Branches – For all plant life, dead wood represents an easy entryway for disease and insect infestation. In fact, dead limbs or branches may result from a disease or infestation and should be investigated.

This dead wood should be removed upon discovery, regardless of the season or circumstance.

Storm Damage – Severe weather events seemingly occurring more frequently and consequently causing sometimes catastrophic damages to trees, shrubs, and plants.

When you detect storm damage in your trees, shrubs, and plants, you should take immediate action to remove the damaged wood and prune back limbs that have snapped or broken off (eliminating rough or uneven surfaces). Handling storm-damaged trees is a responsibility that should not be taken lightly. Minor damages can be resolved, but for more extensive damages, hire a professional tree service to help you sort out what can be salvaged and what is a threat and needs removing.

Plants and Shrubs That Should Be Pruned in the Fall

While the overall intent of this publication is to discourage fall/autumn pruning, the following species of plants and shrubs benefit from fall pruning:

• Bearded Iris (Iris germanica)
• Bee Balm (Monarda)
• Bellflowers (Campanula)
• Catmint (Nepeta)
• Coneflowers (Rudbeckia)
• Columbine (Aquilegia)
• Daylily (Hemerocallis)
• Phlox (Phlox paniculata)
• Salvia (Salvia spp.)

Counter to the standard, these above plant species do require fall pruning. However, to be more informed, read when should I prune trees and discover best practices of tree pruning?

Generally speaking, plants hardy in USDA hardiness zones 4 through 9 will need fall pruning.

No shrub species require fall pruning:

Shrub pruning should be treated the same as tree pruning. Early fall pruning can severely damage your shrubs and should be avoided until the shrub has gone dormant for the season.

Tip: You can and should prune shrubs any time it becomes necessary (broken branches, dead or diseased wood, or removing growth that is obstructing a sidewalk or road).

Alternatives to Fall Pruning

Fortunately, there is no shortage of activities you can perform in place of pruning. Your landscape will benefit from the following:

Rake Leaves and Debris – Most fungi and bacteria overwinter (lie in wait) in fallen leaves and debris. Rake this material up regularly and dispose of it from your property. Avoid composting these leaves and material as you may be cultivating harmful plant/tree pathogens.

Mulch – Offer a protective layer of mulch to trees, shrubs, and gardens for the winter months. A new or refreshed three to four-inch layer of organic mulch will help regulate soil moisture and temperature.

Amend Your Soil – The fall season is also a good time to amend your landscape and garden soil with compost or fertilizer. A simple soil test can reveal which nutrients your soil is lacking.

Mark Your Trees – Instead of pruning, take a can of red or pink spray paint and mark the branches you’d like to remove at a more appropriate time. Branches to be marked may include:

• Branches obstructing free-flowing light and air through the canopy
• Crossover branches that rub and cause open wounds to form in the canopy (remove the smaller of the two)
• Low hanging branches that may interfere with foot traffic
• Branches or limbs growing vertically (water sprouts)

Tip: The more prep work you can get accomplished in the fall, the less work you’ll need to do, and the better your landscape’s conditions will be in the spring.

Pruning in the Fall

In this article, you discovered what to prune in the fall and when your trees, shrubs, and plants respond best to pruning activities.

Knowing when and what to prune in the fall season will help you maintain the health and vigor of your plants, shrubs, and trees.

Haphazardly pruning in fall months can lead to diseased or infested plants, shrubs, and trees, sometimes resulting in catastrophic damages when they die or are destroyed in severe weather events.

Sources:
hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/2015/03-13/pruning.html
extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=B961&title=Pruning%20Ornamental%20Plants%20in%20the%20Landscape
johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/agent-articles/trees-shrubs/fall-pruning.html
extension.usu.edu/archive/is-it-too-late-or-too-soon-to-prune
extension.umn.edu/news/prune-or-not-prune-0

Prevent the dead wood on your trees from attracting infestation and disease. Knowing which trees you can prune in the spring will help you promote their health and vigorous growth.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on pruning trees and shrubs in springtime, which trees to never prune in spring, and some of the diseases and insects to be aware of.

When To Prune Trees in Spring

Should I prune in early, mid, or late spring? This answer depends on when and how your tree blooms.

Consider the following species and their blooming patterns:

• Abelia (Abelia x Grandiflora) Prune in early spring. Blooms in summer.
• Apple trees (Malus Domestica) Prune in early spring. Blooms in mid to late spring.
• Apricot trees (Prunus armeniaca) Prune in early spring. Blooms in early spring.
• Azalea (Rhododendron) Prune after spring flowers fade. Blooms from early spring to late summer.
• Chaste trees (Vitex agnus-castus) Prune in early spring. Blooms from late spring until early fall.
• Cherry trees (Prunus avium) Prune in early spring or mid-summer. Blooms in mid-spring
• Chokecherry trees (Prunus virginiana) Prune in early spring. Blooms in late spring.
• Clethra or Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia) Prune in early spring. Blooms in mid-summer.
• Crabapple trees (Malus) Prune in early spring. Blooms in mid to late spring.
• Dogwood trees (Cornus florida) Prune in early spring during dormancy. Blooms in mid to late spring.
• Forsythia (Forsythia x intermedia) Prune in late spring after blooms fade. Blooms in early spring.
• Hawthorn (Crataegus) Prune in early spring. Blooms in late spring or early summer.
• Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) Prune in spring. Blooms in mid to late summer.
• Juneberry trees (Amelanchier lamarckii) Prune in early spring. Blooms in mid-spring.
• Lilac trees (Syringa reticulata) Prune immediately after spring flowers fade. Blooms in early spring.
• Magnolia trees (Magnolia grandiflora) Prune immediately after spring flowers fade. Blooms in early spring.
• Peach trees (Prunus persica) Prune in spring as buds swell. Blooms in spring.
• Pear trees (Pyrus calleryana) Prune in early spring before bud swell. Blooms anytime through mid-spring.
• Plum trees (Prunus domestica) Prune in early spring before bud swell. Blooms in early spring.
• Roses (Rosa) Prune in early spring before leafing. Blooms in spring, summer, and fall.

Maple (Acer), Walnut (Juglans), and Birch (Betula) trees tend to ooze copious amounts of sap after winter pruning. These species release less sap in early spring, making it the preferred time for pruning them.

Tip 1: Trees and shrubs flowering in mid or late summer are doing so on the current year’s growth. Promote this growth by pruning them in early spring.

Tip 2: Trees and shrubs flowering in spring are doing so on the previous year’s growth. These should be pruned only after their flowers fade. Pruning these species before blooming may significantly reduce or eliminate the season’s flowers.

The dormant season is critical in the deciduous tree life cycle, but since trees bloom and enter dormancy at different times, When Should I Prune Trees is a pertinent question that we are often asked. As indicated above, pruning prior to blooming season is a good rule of thumb, but not all trees adhere to this rule, and pruning them incorrectly can be disastrous.

Trees To Never Prune in Spring

Spring pruning for some species can result in catastrophic consequences. The following species are already highly susceptible to disease, and pruning them in spring only exacerbates their susceptibility:

• Oak trees (Quercus) susceptible to oak wilt.
• Elm trees (Ulmus) susceptible to Dutch elm disease.
• Sycamore trees (Platanus occidentalis) susceptible to anthracnose.
• Honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos) susceptible to stem cankers.

These and most deciduous tree species should be pruned during their dormant season (late fall through early spring).

Note: Storm and other types of damage should be immediately pruned off the tree, regardless of the season. Leaving damaged wood on any tree species will likely result in infestation or disease.

Tree Diseases and Insect Infestations

If you live in an area affected by an insect or disease epidemic, hire a professional tree service to perform any spring pruning activities on your trees. Such epidemics or outbreaks may include:

• Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) only attacks ash species.
• Dutch Elm Disease (DED) primarily affects elm species.
• Anthracnose – Shade trees such as sycamore, ash, oak, and maple are highly susceptible.
• Bark Beetles attack cedar, spruce, fir, and pine tree species.
• Ambrosia Beetles attack thin-barked, deciduous trees, including more than 100 species.

Tip: Inquire with your local university extension or an ISA certified arborist to confirm any disease or insect epidemics/outbreaks in your area. You can also inquire with your local USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) office.

Further Reading: If Anthracnose is prevalent or relevant in your region, we wrote an in-depth article on How to Identify, Treat, and Prevent Anthracnose that would be a beneficial read.

When To Prune Trees

In this article, you discovered which flowering tree species can be safely pruned in spring and which species to never cut or prune during the spring months.

Promote vigorous growth and increase your tree’s health by using timely pruning practices in spring.

Without proactive pruning, dead or diseased wood left on your tree will attract diseases and infestations lethal to them.

Sources:
hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/pruning-trees/
hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/2015/03-13/pruning.html
content.ces.ncsu.edu/granulate-asian-ambrosia-beetle-1
fs.fed.us/projects/hfi/field-guide/web/page09.php
ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7420.html

Prevent disease, infestation, and poor health from debilitating and killing your trees. By knowing some simple pruning information and techniques, you can help your trees stay healthy and thriving for years to come.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on reasons to prune, the best time for pruning trees, the value of pruning, how to prune branches, and when you should seek a professional tree service.

Why Are You Pruning Your Trees?

Before picking up any equipment or making any pruning cuts, you should be crystal clear about the reason for your pruning. The following are some of the reasons trees should be pruned:

• Encourage growth in a specific direction
• Eliminate potentially dangerous branches
• Remove interfering branches
• Shape your tree
• Encourage or reduce flowering or fruiting
• Remove suckers or water sprouts
• Crown cleaning (removes dead, diseased, or infested wood)
• Crown thinning (allows more light to reach inner branches)
• Crown raising (removes lower beaches)
• Crown reduction (for mature trees, leaves old growth while encouraging new growth)

Once you have accomplished your pruning goal, stop. Every cut you make is an open wound and potential for infection and infestation.

Note: Never make physical contact with a tree that touches live power lines. The tree may be energized and cause your electrocution. In these cases, contact your power company to either prune the tree or cut the power while pruning or have the tree pruned.

Tip: Avoid pruning activities in late summer and early fall, this is the time diseases are most active and infectious.

Pruning Deciduous Trees

Deciduous tree species are those that shed their foliage in the fall, preparing for winter dormancy. During this period of dormancy, the tree conserves energy and slows all of its functions to a slow crawl.

Once the tree is dormant, and until bud break in early spring, it can be safely pruned for structure, shaping, safety, and encouraging vigorous, healthy new growth. Deciduous tree species include:

• Maple
• Oak
• Elm
• Beech
• Aspen
• Birch
• Poplar
• Willow

Pruning a deciduous tree during its dormancy period lowers the multiple risks of disease and pest infestations in open pruning wounds.

Pruning Evergreen Trees

Evergreen species are those that retain their foliage throughout the year. In the case of evergreens, they will shed old foliage as new foliage grows in regardless of the season. Evergreen tree species include:

• Pine
• Fir
• Spruce
• Hemlock
• Redcedar
• Arborvitae
• Cypress
• Eucalyptus
• Yew

Except for pine tree species, evergreens should be pruned:

• Before the emergence of new growth in early spring
• During the period of semi dormancy in mid-summer

Use caution when pruning evergreens, some species like cypress have dead spaces behind their foliage. This is the area between the trunk and the foliage, consisting of only branches and twigs. Aggressive pruning for these species is discouraged, as it will likely leave large holes behind that will not fill in.

Note: Pine trees should be pruned in spring (damaged, dead, diseased, or infested branches can be pruned at any time). However, try to avoid pruning activities on pine trees in late summer and fall.

Pruning Flowering Trees

Flowering trees can be separated into two categories; One would be those that flower in the spring. The other would be those that flower in mid to late summer. Consider the following:

Trees and shrubs flowering in spring are doing so on last year’s growth. These trees and shrubs should be pruned when their flowers fade. These species include:

• Azaleas (Rhododendron)
• Forsythia (Forsythia x intermedia)
• Hawthorn (Crataegus)
• Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)
• Magnolia (Magnolia)

Trees and shrubs flowering in mid to late summer are doing so on the current year’s growth. These trees and shrubs should be pruned in winter or early spring. These species include:

• Bradford Pear (Pyrus calleryana)
• Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)
• Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida)
• Honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissiam)
• Redbud (Cercis canadensis)
• Wisteria (Wisteria species)

Pruning these species outside the timeframes described above can lead to a year without their flowering. Unseasonal pruning also exposes your tree to opportunistic diseases and insect infestation.

Pruning Fruit Trees

Your fruit trees should be pruned during dormancy, winter to early spring when foliage has fallen, and you can see the tree’s growing points (dormant buds). Think of your fruit tree as having vertical and horizontal branches.

Pruning a vertical branch will encourage vegetative growth, creating a bushing effect. Pruning horizontal branches renews fruiting wood and thins excessive fruiting.

Pruning vertical branches opens the tree canopy to more light while pruning horizontal branches removes fruit. Horizontal branches left unpruned will bear fruit earlier with more massive crops than those that were pruned.

When preparing to prune, be aware of the following fruiting principals of your tree:

These trees fruit on last year’s shoot growth and produce abundant crops. You can safely remove half of the previous year’s growth:

• Kiwi
• Peach
• Nectarine

These trees bear on spurs. You can remove up to 20% of the previous year’s growth:

• Olive
• Walnut
• Fig
• Pecan
• Apple
• Pear
• Plumb
• Apricot

Perhaps the easiest to maintain are trees bearing citrus fruit. Keep the tree skirts pruned off the ground:

• Grapefruit
• Orange
• Lemon
• Clementine
• Pomelo

Pruning fruit-bearing trees in the summer will slow fruit ripening and expose it to sunburn. However, early summer pruning can slow the growth of overly vigorous trees that have become too large to manage.

Tip: Sun exposed branches are fruitful and will produce larger fruit. Shaded branches will eventually stop producing fruit until drastic topping occurs. If you do most of your pruning in the top portion of the tree, the lower branches will continue exposed to sunlight.

Pruning Diseased and Infested Trees

Dead, diseased, and insect-infested branches (of any tree species) can be removed at any time of the year. In fact, the harm of leaving these branches, until the right pruning season, far outweighs the potential risks of pruning them off, out of season.

If the infestation or disease symptoms are present near the branch collar or on the tree trunk, hire a professional tree service to evaluate the tree’s condition and recommend a course of treatment or preventive actions, including emergency removal.

Note: In cases of severe infestation or infection, it is common practice to remove and destroy the tree. Thus preserving the health of your landscape and neighboring trees.

Pruning To Prevent Self-Pruning

Light deprived branches do not photosynthesize at the capacity they were intended. Over time, the tree may isolate that branch and let it go. In such scenarios, the sudden falling of a branch may occur, as the tree has self-pruned. Also known as cladoptosis, the following trees are notorious for spontaneously dropping their branches:

• Eucalyptus
• Aspen
• Elm
• Maple
• Pecan
• Pine
• Poplar
• Willow

Even providing the best care and attention possible to your trees, you may not be successful at preventing them from self-pruning. However, the following will help you slow this natural process:

• Water your tree frequently with occasional deep waterings
• Check the soil annually for nutrient deficiencies and its pH level
• Prune to encourage healthy growth and remove unwanted/unneeded growth, consider crown thinning to allow more light to reach lower branches
• Have your trees inspected annually for signs of infection and disease

Note: Even trees not known to self-prune may do so when under severe duress. Read more about cladoptosis at toddsmariettatreeservices.com/self-pruning-trees-cladoptosis/

Pruning Tools

The pruning process begins with the right tools for the job. Before starting, verify that your tools are sharp (to make clean cuts) and that they have been sanitized (to prevent transmitting disease pathogens) since their last use. The following is a list of tools to help you get your pruning job done correctly:

• Hand-Held Pruning Shears (safely cuts branches up to 3/4 of an inch)
• Loppers (safely cuts branches up to 2-1/2 inches thick)
• Pruning Saw (capable of cutting branches up to 5 inches in diameter)
• Pole Pruner (used to cut branches up to 1-1/4 inch thick up to 8 feet into the canopy)
• Hedge Shears (these work well to trim evergreens)

Due to weight and the potential hazard more massive branches may pose, it is highly recommended that a professional tree service be hired to remove them.

Tip: Pruning shears and loppers come with anvil (has a straight blade using a splitting action), bypass (similar to scissors), and ratchet (like anvil, but with a locking mechanism allowing you to cut in stages) style blades.

How To Prune Tree Branches

The following will help you determine where and how to make pruning cuts:

Small Twigs and Branches – Use hand-held shears for anything up to 3/4 of an inch. You can cut these back to the main branch, or just in front of (1/4 of an inch) a dormant bud to encourage growth in the bud’s direction. All cuts should be clean and made at 45-degree angles.

Stems and Branches – Use loppers or a pole pruner to cut anything up to 2-1/2 inches. These can also be cut back to the main branch or trunk (just in front of the branch collar). If pruning out disease, make your cut 10 to 12 inches ahead of the affected area.

Large Branches – Use a saw to cut branches up to 5 inches in diameter. Due to the weight of these branches and potential for severe bark damage, make your cuts as follows:

• Cut #1 is made under the branch about six inches ahead of the branch collar. This cut should be 1/4 of the branch’s diameter.
• Cut #2 is made about 6 inches in front of the first cut to sever the branch from the tree.
• Cut #3 is made just ahead of the branch collar to remove the rest of the branch.

Watch this video to see how pruning cuts are made.

Tip: When pruning any size branch back to the main branch or trunk, do not injure the branch collar. This is the tree’s mechanism used to compartmentalize the wounds left behind by pruning activities.

Note: When pruning out diseased wood, dispose of it carefully. Do not compost diseased wood or foliage, and sanitize your pruning equipment and gloves after contact with infected wood.

Tree Pruning

In this article, you discovered the best times and reasons for pruning various tree species, the value of properly pruning your trees, how to make pruning cuts, and when to call for professional help.

By pruning your trees, you can encourage vigorous growth, remove disease and infestation, and improve their health.

When you neglect to prune your trees, you encourage disease and infestation to debilitate your tree’s health, eventually leading to its death.

Sources:
mortonarb.org/trees-plants/tree-and-plant-advice/horticulture-care/pruning-evergreens
pubs.ext.vt.edu/430/430-456/430-456.html
hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/pruning-trees/
arborday.org/trees/tips/
cesonoma.ucanr.edu/files/27164.pdf

You may be unknowingly spreading disease all over your landscape. Those yellow, brown, or black spots on your tree may be anthracnose. Avoid hosing down your tree to try and clean it, you could be spreading this fungi everywhere!

Over time and repeated attacks, anthracnose can weaken your tree’s health and provide an opportunity for other disease and infestation. Once identified, tree anthracnose should be treated immediately.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered this information to help you identify, treat, prevent anthracnose, and uncover the fungi responsible for causing it.

What Is the Cause of Anthracnose?

Tree anthracnose is caused by a fungal infection fueled by optimal weather conditions. The following are some of the fungi responsible for anthracnose and some of the tree species they infect:

• Apiognomonia Errabunda – Attacks tilia, Quercus, beech, oak, lindens, and Fagus (ficus) trees.
• Apiognomonia Veneta – Attacks london planes and sycamores.
• Colletotrichum Gloeosporioides – Attacks ash, tulip, and cacao or cocoa trees.
• Discula Fraxinea – Attacks maple, ash, and fringetree.
• Glomerella Fungi Species – Attacks banana, mango, papaya, and lemons.
• Gnomonia Fungi Species – Attacks oak, maple, sycamore, walnut, ash, and dogwood trees.
• Marssonina Fungi Species – Attacks aspen, poplars, and cottonwood trees.
• Stegophora ulmea – Attacks elm trees.

The above-mentioned fungi overwinter in either the leaves that have fallen to the ground, or in cankers on the tree’s bark. In springtime, the fungi’s reproduction process is favored by cool temperatures and prolonged periods of rain.

As the fungi generate spores, splashing rain, overhead watering, and/or the wind disperses them to leaf buds, shoots, or young leaves. The fungi then colonize the tissue of the new host and begin producing spores to be carried off in the same manner.

As long as temperatures remain mild and moist conditions persist, the fungi will continue to colonize leaf tissue, produce spores, and reinfect the same leaves or spread to others. Without intervention, this process can repeat itself throughout spring and into early summer.

Anthracnose and other fungal diseases that attack trees need water (moisture) to grow, propagate, and colonize new hosts. These diseases are less common in warmer regions that have less rainfall.

What Are the Symptoms of Anthracnose?

While anthracnose can be caused by several different species of fungi, the symptoms are the same. Here is how to identify an anthracnose infection:

• Bud death
• Twig death
• Dead spots on leaves
• Dead tissue along leaf veins
• Dead blotches between leaf veins
• Unseasonal or premature leaf-drop
• Lesions known as cankers in tree bark (open wounds)

A common symptom among all of the anthracnose diseases is the presence of acervuli. Use a magnifying glass to examine the underside of infected leaves. You are looking for dark colored pimple-like fruiting structures (acervuli).

In infected trees, these structures may also be found peppered along dead twigs.

How Do You Treat Anthracnose?

While damages resulting from anthracnose infections are generally inconsequential to the overall health of a tree, repeated attacks from the disease year after year can weaken a tree’s defenses enough to leave it susceptible to other diseases and insect infestations.

The following measures will help to treat the disease and reduce the potential for infection in the coming springtime:

Don’t Spray the Foliage – Anthracnose fungi depend on splashing water and wind to carry them from one host to another. If you try to wash off the foliage, you are doing more to help the fungi live than to save your tree.

Fallen Leaves – Collect and destroy fallen leaves. These dead leaves (if left on the ground) provide an optimal location for fungi to overwinter.

Pruning – For the fungi and acervuli found in blighted twigs, these areas should be pruned back and destroyed.

Crown thinning will allow more air and light to reach the inner branches and foliage, which in turn will help fight against the fungi.

Depending on the extent of the infection, excessive pruning may be necessary. If this is the case, contact a professional tree service to evaluate the situation.

Tip: To destroy the pruned portion of the tree and/or leaves, light up the fire pit or have a bonfire.

After pruning any diseased plant, shrub, or tree, make certain that your tools are sanitized before storing them or using them again. Use a 1 part bleach to 6 parts water solution to wash your tools.

Fungicides – In areas or with trees that have a history of anthracnose infections, fungicides can be used to further curtail its spreading.

Knowing the species of your tree will help you select the right fungicide. Many of them are labeled for use against specific fungi, and the fungi which cause anthracnose are typically host species specific.

How Can Anthracnose Be Prevented?

By providing plants and trees with well drained and enriched soil, nutrient-rich fertilizer, sufficient water, and annual pruning, you will help them maintain a vigorous defense system and enable them to resist diseases more handily.

If you use a sprinkler or overhead watering system, consider modifying it or replacing it with a drip system. Drip systems don’t create the splashing effect necessary to carry fungus spores from host to host.

Finally, take action against other fungal invaders and pests to prevent the tree’s health from weakening.

Tree Health and Disease Prevention

There is more to preventing tree diseases than just hosing down your trees. To stop the spread of anthracnose and prevent its return, it takes an understanding of what it is and how it spreads from host to host.

In this article, you discovered what causes anthracnose, how to correctly identify it by common characteristics, how to treat it, and the steps to prevent it.

Anthracnose, through repeated attacks, will eventually weaken your tree and allow other more invasive diseases and tree pests to attack. Treatment and prevention measures should begin as soon as this disease is positively identified.

For more signs and symptoms of a troubled tree, visit http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/troubled-tree-signs-symptoms/

Sources:

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7420.html
https://extension.psu.edu/anthracnose-on-shade-trees
https://wiki.bugwood.org/HPIPM:Anthracnose_Diseases
https://www.ppws.vt.edu/content/dam/ppws_vt_edu/extension/plant-disease-clinic/files/clinic-report-2013.pdf
https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/25356

Photchana Trakunsukharat, Department of Agriculture, Thailand [CC BY 3.0 au], via Wikimedia Commons

Tree emergencies come in all shapes and sizes. Many times, there is an emergency situation brewing underneath the surface and goes unnoticed until it’s too late and catastrophic damage is done.

Part of being a responsible and prepared property owner is learning to identify the warning signs of a tree emergency and how to take preemptive action.

In this article, the professionals at toddsmariettatreeservices.com explain how to identify tree problems which constitute an emergency, and what proactive measures to take to avoid expensive damages and repairs.

Tree Emergencies in Marietta GA after Severe Weather

Marietta Georgia is no stranger to storms that swoop in with damaging rain and winds. Trees are vulnerable and may sustain injuries in such weather events. After the storm has passed, one of the first things to do is inspect your trees and look for the following:

My Tree Is Leaning – When a tree suddenly leans, there is much to be concerned about. At the very least, the roots have lost their grip in the ground, and the weight of the tree is no longer balanced.

Depending on the size (height) and age of the tree, corrective measures may solve the problem. Taller and older trees will likely require emergency removal to avoid catastrophic property damage or loss.

Action Required: Immediately contact a professional tree service to evaluate the tree and offer a solution.

A Large Branch is Broken and Hanging – While this may seem like a simple problem to solve, it may be an indication of underlying health issues.

If your tree is located in an area that has been affected by prolonged periods of drought, the tree itself may be brittle, posing the threat of other falling branches.

Many species of fungi are able to invade a tree and cause the slow deterioration of the heartwood. If this is the case, the tree may very well be dead and at risk of collapsing under its own weight.

Trees grow based on symmetry and balance. If the branch in question is large enough or contains a significant portion of the crown, the stability of the tree may be compromised. In severe enough cases, emergency tree removal may be the only viable option.

Action Required: DO NOT pull or tear the branch down – this may cause irreparable damage to the tree. Contact a reputable tree service to properly remove the branch and ensure that the tree is stable and in good health.

Sections of Bark Are Missing – During severe storms, the wind may carry unsecured objects as projectiles and launch them into a tree trunk, damaging or stripping the bark away.

Just below the bark is the xylem and phloem which transport water and nutrients throughout the tree. If large portions of the bark have been damaged or are missing, this may girdle (strangle) the tree.

Action Required: This is a serious situation requiring immediate attention which the tree may not recover from. Call in an arborist to evaluate the tree’s condition and prescribe the necessary action.

Learn about tree preparation for storms toddsmariettatreeservices.com/hurricane-planting-tips-trees-marietta-ga-landscape/.

Signs of Tree Health Problems

When a tree’s health is compromised, one or a combination of the following signs will be visible (outlined after the below signs are the necessary actions to address and resolve them):

Wilted or Discolored Leaves – If the wilting or discoloration is in the entirety of the canopy, it could mean that the tree is suffering from drought or soil compaction.

However, if the symptoms are confined to a section of the canopy with no physical bark / branch damage or beetle infestation, it is likely a tree disease.

Mushrooms Growing on The Tree – This may be an intriguing visual, but it is a symptom of a grave issue within the tree.

Mushrooms require rotting tissue for their growth. If you see mushrooms sprouting from your tree, you can assume that heart rot is the front-runner of potential culprits.

Dieback – This symptom becomes evident when the extremities of a tree wilt and die, working its way to the center.

Dieback occurs when a disease has infected the tree, or the environment has changed to unfavorable and damaging growth conditions.

Insect Infestation – Trees in good health are typically able to resist insect infestations. That said, boring insects such as beetles may still be able to attack a healthy tree.

Look for webs in the tree, sooty mold on or under the leaves, leaves that have been eaten (chewed up), or entry holes and sawdust from burrowing insects. These are all signs that insects are using your tree to propagate their species.

Actions Required: Addressing the above tree health problems can be divided into three categories:

1 – Burrowing Insects – Seek immediate assistance from a tree service to determine the extent of the damage, to exterminate the insects (if possible) and to contain the infestation from spreading to other trees.

2 – Wilt, Dieback, and Mushrooms – These signs indicate serious health problems within the tree and require a professional approach to either bring the tree back to health or remove it to avoid spreading the problem to neighboring trees.

3 – Non-Burrowing Insects – Neem oil or a homemade insecticide (basic recipe below*) can be applied to the infected and surrounding areas of the tree to halt their activities. If this approach does not resolve the pest issue, or the tree is presenting other visual symptoms, call in an arborist or reputable tree service to evaluate the tree’s health.

*Basic Insecticidal Soap Recipe – This recipe requires three ingredients: dish soap, vegetable oil, and water. Add 2.5Tbsp of dish soap and 2.5Tbsp of vegetable oil to 1 gallon of warm water and mix it well. Apply as needed.

Identify and Correct Tree Health Emergencies in Marietta Ga

With the above knowledge, you will be aware of the signs of a troubled tree, the potential results of inaction, and the best course of action to take. Take the time to examine your trees with a renewed perspective.

Everything from insect infestations and invasive fungi to compacted soil, damaged roots, and severe weather events can cause the decline of your tree’s health. Identifying the warning signs and taking action is a crucial step toward its recovery or a required emergency removal.

To help prevent tree health issues, schedule an annual inspection with a professional tree service, and keep proper pruning activities limited to late winter or early spring.

Turning a blind eye to your tree’s declining health can result in the death of the tree. If that tree falls, your home, vehicle, and everyone within the fall radius is at risk of costly damages or severe injury. Beware, when a tree falls it does not choose where it is safe to land.

Major late winter storms have wreaked havoc on the Northeast, while bringing more rain to the Southeast. From coastal storm surge and flooding to record setting snowfall and downed trees that have caused power outages, catastrophic property damage and loss of life.

With trees, preparation and preventative measures are key to their survival of severe weather. However, even the most well prepared landscape can suffer tree damage or loss in a major weather event.

Before the next storm strikes, the Todd’s Marietta Tree Services team outlined measures to help prevent your trees from causing catastrophic property damage (or worse) during major storms.

Tree Health, Inspection, and Diagnosis

Tree health and disease prevention begins with proper seasonal maintenance, watering, and pruning. Inspecting your trees needs to be a part of the seasonal routine. Through regular inspections, you will be able to detect problems before they have a chance to develop and compromise your tree’s health.

Whether it be dieback, holes from burrowing insects, mushrooms growing on the trunk or suckers randomly popping up, when you spot trouble, immediate action should be taken to halt the issue. Immediate action is necessary to preserve the health and integrity of your tree(s).

In situations where you are uncertain of what to look for or which actions to take, call in a professional tree service to inspect, evaluate, and explain the different courses of action that can be taken to resolve the issue(s).

Trees Too Close to Power Lines

We’ve all been through it. The rain starts, the wind blows, the storm strengthens, and the power goes out. Generally, the power goes out during a storm when a tree falls and severs a power line connection or disrupts a transformer.

If a tree is growing close enough to power lines that it is in constant contact, touches them when the wind blows, or is an overstory tree that is threatening to fall, here are some suggestions for the handling of that tree.

Tree on Your Property – If the tree is on your property and is interfering with power lines, be very cautious. Trees can become energized when in contact with power lines and cause severe injury or electrocution.

Pruning or cutting back the tree on your own is highly discouraged. Call in a reputable tree service to evaluate the situation and recommend a safe course of action.

In the event that action must be taken, in some cases the power company will be called out to cut the power supply until the tree pruning, cutting, or removal has been completed.

Your Neighbor’s Trees – If you see a neighbor’s tree that is or could interfere with power lines, notify and communicate with them on the issue. Educate your neighbor about the risks and danger that the tree(s) poses, and encourage them to contact the power company.

You are not required to get approval, so if the neighbor does not take immediate action, or the property is abandoned, contact the power company and inform them of the threatening tree(s).

Both you and the power company have an interest in preventing a tree from falling on the lines, so do not hesitate, as a broken line means an inconvenience and loss of power for your neighborhood.

Trees In an HOA Community – If you live in a community with a Home Owner’s Association, they may already have a contract with a local tree service. When you spot an interfering tree within the community, inform the HOA of the location. They will then serve notice to the property owner or take action themselves.

Public Trees – If you spot a tree that is interfering with power lines along the street or on public property, notify the power company of the location. They will dispatch a crew to resolve the issue through their right-of-way and vegetation management division.

Georgia Power’s right-of-way and vegetation management can be reached here, or by phone toll free at 1-888-660-5890 (dial option 1 for dangerous conditions)

Trees Too Close to Your House

When trees overhang a portion of your roof or have grown big enough to cause significant property damage, the following will help prevent a catastrophic tree emergency event during severe weather.

Routine Pruning and Care – The closer a tree is to your home, the more attention it should get. Make sure it is properly pruned according to the right time for its species. Inspect the tree often for signs of trouble and take action when you see something wrong.

Landscaping and Land Disturbance – If you have landscaping that requires heavy machinery, it is important to protect the roots of the tree from compacted soil.

TIP: Heavy machinery and equipment should not be allowed on the land surrounding a tree – from the trunk to the outer edge of the canopy.

Also, be aware that removing concrete slabs like those in walkways or driveways may result in your tree falling. As the roots grow beneath, the structure becomes a part of the tree’s support system. Always seek the advice of an experienced and reputable tree service when planning to cut trees, plant or redo your landscape.

Trees and the Weather

While trees are very capable of adapting to their location and responsive to the climate they grow in, severe weather will often challenge the strength and health of your trees.

Inclement weather and intense storms are primarily dangerous due to lightning, high-speed winds, and their ability to topple trees into power lines and on to structures.

It is up to property owners to ensure continuous vigilance and tree care to prevent catastrophic emergency tree events that result in severe property damage, power outages, or loss of life.

Whether the roots are growing protruding the foundation, or the canopy is large enough to graze the house, that tree has grown too close to your home.

Depending on the species and maturity of the tree in question, there are a few distinctions and options to explore before considering tree removal as a definitive solution.

How Do You Know If A Tree Is Too Close To A House’s Foundation?

Generally, a tree should be planted at least fifteen feet away from the foundation of a home. For larger, overstory species (taller than sixty feet), that distance should be increased to at least twenty feet from foundations and landscape features.

Trees with invasive and aggressive roots like the aspen species need to be planted in wide-open space to avoid foundation, driveway, fence, and sidewalk damages. Planting such trees in well-drained and well-irrigated soil will entice the roots to grow deeper in the ground, often preventing such damages.

Larger trees often pose a second threat to homes when their branches hang over the roof. Besides clogging rain gutters and downspouts with leaves and debris, these branches, swaying in the wind, can cause severe damage to the roofing, while self-pruning species like eucalyptus can inflict catastrophic losses when branches fall onto the home.

Before planting a tree in your yard, research the species, its growing habits, and potential issues it may cause as it matures.

Note: Tree roots grow in search of moisture and nutrients. The soil beneath a home’s foundation is typically dry and “unattractive” to tree roots. However, leaks in the water supply or sewage lines can make that soil very attractive to tree roots if not promptly fixed.

Tree Roots Grow Far from the Trunk

Understanding how tree roots grow is important to protect your home and foundation. The reach of the tree roots is usually determined by the size of the trunk. For each inch at DBH (Diameter at Breast Height – diameter measured 4.5 feet above ground), the roots extend up to a foot and a half away from the trunk. With that calculation, a six inch trunk at DBH means the roots can extend up to nine feet away from the trunk in any direction.

Tree Roots Seek Water

The life of any tree depends on its root’s ability to find a water source. The ferocity at which tree roots accomplish this depends as much on the species as it does the availability of water. A great example is an aspen tree. It’s roots are extremely invasive, and will grow out and under structures very quickly, buckling concrete and foundation walls in the process.

Trimming Tree Roots

Not so fast. Before you go slicing into a tree’s roots, call on a tree service to evaluate the situation and provide the best solution. Otherwise, cutting into large roots will leave the tree susceptible to infestation and disease, while cutting the smaller ones only delays their inevitable nature of growing back.

Also note that if the roots have grown beneath your driveway or home’s foundation, that itself has become part of the tree’s structural integrity. Cutting and removing those roots may allow the tree in a future storm to topple into your home.

Trimming and Pruning Your Tree Canopy

Properly pruning and trimming your tree will help to avoid damages caused by limbs repeatedly striking or falling onto your home. Knowing your species mature size – how large your tree will become – will help you determine other steps to take – if necessary.

When determining how far away from the home to plant a tree, take the following into consideration:

For Small Trees – Trees reaching 30 feet tall or less should be planted at least 10 feet from the home and other structures.

For Medium-Sized Trees – A medium-sized tree is one that reaches a maximum height of 70 feet. These trees should never be planted closer than 15 feet to a fixed structure or home.

For Large Trees – Trees that surpass 70 feet in height should be planted at a minimum of 20 feet from a home or property.

Canopy Size Matters Too – Knowing the tree’s average canopy size at full maturity of the tree is another way to determine a safe planting distance from a home. If the canopy has an average diameter of 20 feet, it should be planted at least 10 feet (half of the canopy size) from the home to allow the tree to reach its full spread.

Tree and Tree Root Removal

Innocent missteps when attempting to cut roots or over prune a tree may lead to the decline of your tree’s health and ultimate death. This scenario often results in the tree toppling during a storm, and potentially causing severe structural damage or fatalities.

INSURANCE TIP: If your tree was damaged, diseased, dying, or dead, and you knew but did nothing about it, when that tree falls and damages your property, don’t look to your insurer for help. Your neglect or disregard violates your policy, thus the tree damage is not covered, and the claim may likely be denied.

Do yourself and your tree the favor of seeking the advice of a tree service that is trained to identify tree problems and offer tree care, trimming, or removal solutions.

When trees shed their leaves for dormancy, there are various ways to prepare your tree for the winter season. Some factors like excess temperature, ground soil freeze, and ice showers may have a negative impact on your tree’s health. In this article Todd will discuss the main methods you can use to prepare your trees for the coming cold months.

What is a Deciduous Tree

The term ‘deciduous tree’ refers to a tree that sheds all of its leaves seasonally during the fall months and then enters a cycle of dormancy and finally growing new leaves in early spring. The leaves start to go through color changes and by December, they fall to the ground.

There is a noteworthy parameter to this phenomenon-the shed leaves create a type of barrier around the tree’s roots preventing them from getting cold/frozen. The natural decomposition of the leaves also enriches the soil and tree with health-boosting nutrients.

Note: Mowing the leaves can support this entire function as well as prevent leaves from matting and leading to problems later on.

What is Dormancy and its Role in Tree’s Health

Dormancy highly resembles animal hibernation in numerous aspects. During the winter time, animals slow their bodily systems to preserve their energy through deep sleep. Likewise, trees temporarily stop generating food during the winter season to save their energy deposits.

Deciduous trees, in particular, generate a substance named ‘Abscisic Acid’ which sends signals to the leaves to shed.

This substance (ABA) has the role of temporarily shutting off a tree’s development in both coniferous and deciduous tree types. Stopped growth is an extra benefit of dormancy which decreases even more the energy usage of trees. When the tree enters such a state, its metabolic function also slows, only using stored nourishment deposits and employs only principal processes.

Check Your Trees Prior to the Winter Season

In case you wish to keep health issues and insect infestations of your trees and shrubs under control, it would be wise to consult a tree expert. A tree professional can find out if there is something wrong with your tree and its respective treatment.

Getting your trees checked before dormancy starts will enable a prompt diagnosis of invasive insects or fungi. If you leave these issues untreated, the infestation caused during the dormancy stage will be detrimental to your tree’s health and lifespan.

Mulching Helps Conserve Water

When a tree loses more moisture than it takes in, this is called winter drought. We cannot control the weather, but we are able minimize it affects our trees.

Before winter temperatures set in, placing organic mulch around the tree’s base will provide a sort of insulation for the root system. The mulch works to prevent runoff and helps retain moisture. This benefits the tree’s health, hydration, and transition into and out of dormancy.

How to Treat Ice and Snow Accumulation

During a harsh winter season, Ice and snow may accumulate over your tree’s branches. It’s highly recommended that you DO NOT attempt to shake it off of the tree.

That is because the branches will be frozen, brittle, and prone to breaking. If you attempt to shake the snow and ice off, you may seriously harm the tree and even cause the tree branches to break off.

So when harsh weather conditions like this occur, it’s better to consult an expert so they can check the tree’s health status and come up with a course of action.

For more tips on dealing with snow on trees, click here.

Trees Know When It’s Time To Come Back to Life

As soon as the season shifts and warmer temperatures set in, trees will start coming back to their old selves. If you helped the tree the season before, your tree will enjoy another year of health and great looks.

Let nature do its thing. After you do some trimming and make sure your tree is out of harms way, allow the tree’s natural functions to take over – it knows what it’s doing.